Winter Weddings in the North: Velvet and Heavy Wool Tuxedos

For a wedding in the cold months in Hanoi and the north, choose a tuxedo in heavier wool or velvet, wear a waistcoat underneath, and keep a long overcoat for the bridal pickup. A light black summer suit will leave you shivering through every photo taken in the courtyard. The tuxedo was designed as evening wear for a warm ballroom, so once it goes outdoors in winter you make up the difference with cloth and layers.

Heavier cloth: worsted wool and velvet

Cloth for the cold season is usually heavier. A medium-to-heavy worsted wool holds warmth and keeps its shape, so the lapel and shoulder do not slump after a long day. If you want warmth you can actually see, choose cotton or wool velvet for the whole jacket. Velvet catches the light beautifully in a banquet hall, and winter photographs show its colour in real depth.

Velvet needs more care: avoid sitting for long periods that crush the pile, never hang it pressed against other garments, and steam it rather than iron it directly. We cover the details in our piece on the velvet dinner jacket and smoking jacket. A lighter alternative is a tightly woven wool with satin lapels, warm and still faithful to black tie.

A three-piece for warmth

A waistcoat is a clever way to keep warm without spoiling the line. It sits close to the torso, covers the stomach and chest, and adds a layer between shirt and jacket. A cummerbund is formal but not as warm, so in this season the waistcoat is the more practical choice. A waistcoat in the same cloth gives an unbroken silhouette, while a black U- or V-neck waistcoat under a navy jacket adds a gentle contrast.

Under the waistcoat, wear a dress shirt in a slightly heavier poplin. Avoid stuffing a turtleneck inside: the jacket will balloon and the shoulder line will distort. If the cold is serious, a thin thermal undershirt with long sleeves, in white or skin tone, will not show through the shirt.

An overcoat for the bridal pickup

The bridal pickup, outdoor photographs and travel between venues are the stretches that feel coldest. A knee-length coat in black, charcoal or navy, cut with enough room in the shoulder to sit over a tuxedo without creasing it, does the job. A single-breasted wool coat or a chesterfield with a velvet collar has long been worn over formal clothes. When you enter the hall, the coat is checked in or held by a groomsman, and the photographs stay clean.

A thin wool scarf in a muted tone also works. Try the coat on over the tuxedo at your final fitting, so you know the sleeves and shoulders are not tight when layered.

Deep colours for cold weather

Winter is when deeper shades photograph well: true black, midnight blue, petrol blue, charcoal, burgundy and chestnut brown. The models on our site point to a few directions:

• The burgundy velvet tuxedo with black satin peak lapels for a groom who wants impact, lovely against white flowers and warm candlelight.
• The smoky grey velvet tuxedo with a shawl collar, soft and elegant, easy on the bride's palette.
• The classic black three-piece tuxedo when you want something dependable, with a close waistcoat for warmth and photographs that last.

Light shades such as ivory or pastels are not forbidden, but outdoor winter light tends to be grey, so deeper tones protect skin colour and the background of the picture.

Preparing ahead

The late-year wedding season keeps the workroom busy, so settle your cloth early, especially if you want velvet or heavy wool. Making time depends on the model and fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it when measuring. Bring the shoes and shirt you plan to wear to each fitting, and tell us how long you will be outside at the pickup so we can pick the right weight of cloth. For layering advice, read wearing a tuxedo in cold weather.

Suggestions from the Mon Amie workroom

If you marry in the north but are measured in Ho Chi Minh City, your consultant can guide cloth choice and talk through details over Zalo before you come in for fittings. See our wedding tuxedo page for the styles grooms choose most often, then book a fitting at a showroom and pick your cloth in hand.