Bow Legs or Knock Knees: Tuxedo Trouser Solutions

Tuxedo trousers can flatter bow legs or knock knees, provided you give up the idea of a skin-tight leg. Both shapes improve when the trouser falls straight, carries a clear crease, has a satin stripe running down the side and is cut from a cloth that drapes. The legs do not change, but the overall line reads far straighter.

Two shapes, two approaches

• Bow legs: the knees stay apart while the ankles touch. The gap between the legs shows if the trousers are too close-fitting.
• Knock knees: the knees touch while the ankles stay apart. Tight thighs pull diagonal creases through the crotch.

Most men have a mild version and many only notice it once they put on slim trousers. A workroom observation rather than a statistic: many clients only realise at their first fitting, so a thorough fitting matters more than any rule on paper.

A straight leg that hides the shape

The principle is a leg wide enough to fall straight from thigh to hem without following the contour of the leg.

• A straight leg with a slight taper. Avoid skinny cuts; they redraw the curve of the leg. A leg that is too wide looks sloppy and shortens the figure.
• A moderate hem opening. For bow legs, a slightly fuller hem helps balance; for knock knees, a very wide hem lets the two legs flap against each other, so keep it moderate.
• A length that just touches the shoe with a shallow break. Too long, and the creasing hides the straight line.

Our guide to straight or tapered tuxedo trousers goes through the leg shapes in more detail.

The satin stripe as a vertical line

A traditional tuxedo has a satin braid running down the outside of each trouser leg. For an unusual leg shape it does three things:

• It draws the eye along one straight line from hip to hem, so small curves in the leg attract less attention.
• It links the trousers to the lapel facing and balances the whole outfit.
• It lengthens the leg by providing a vertical that is not interrupted.

The braid should be of moderate width, roughly a thumb's breadth, and sit exactly along the side seam. Too wide and it overpowers the leg; too narrow and it does little. The article on why tuxedo trousers carry a satin stripe tells the story behind the detail. TUX-034 is a navy tuxedo with a satin peak lapel and a satin braid down the trouser leg in the formal tradition.

Correcting the crease

The crease is the pressed line from waistband to hem, and when placed well it is a strong tool. For curved legs the tailor does not set the crease along the leg's actual axis but along the axis the trouser should hang:

• Bow legs: the trouser is set so the crease reads straight from hip to shoe, not following the curve at the knee.
• Knock knees: the crease keeps the two legs hanging parallel, not rubbing against each other at the knee.

The adjustment is small, a few millimetres decided during the fitting, yet it determines whether the leg falls cleanly, and it can only be judged on the body. That is one reason made-to-measure beats ready-made for unusual legs: the tailor can correct it on you.

Fabric that drapes

The cloth decides whether the leg hangs or clings. Choose a wool of medium weight that falls naturally, not too thin:

• A very light cloth clings to the leg, showing the curve and creases at the crotch.
• A moderately firm cloth helps the leg hold a straight line.
• A half lining lets the leg swing freely and not stick to the thigh.

A dark, even colour from jacket to trousers, with the braid in a matching tone, also helps the eye read one long vertical.

When to ask the tailor

If you find slim trousers uncomfortable, or they often crease at the crotch, mention it at the measuring. The tailor will look at how you stand, try a sample trouser and adjust. See made-to-measure tuxedos and book a fitting at a showroom. Making time depends on the model and the fitting schedule, and your consultant will confirm it when you are measured.