Cufflink types: toggle, chain and silk knot

For a tuxedo, the two sensible cufflink types are the toggle and the chain link; silk knots belong to a casual register and do not suit a serious evening. The difference lies in construction: the toggle is easy to fasten, the chain link is classic and finished on both sides, and the silk knot is two tied cloth buttons, soft and cheerful but lacking the polish black tie asks for.

The toggle (whale-back)

The toggle is the most common type today. One end is the decorative face; the other is a small metal bar hinged to the post. To fit it, you fold the bar flat along the post and pass it through the buttonholes, then flip it back to sit across the cloth behind, which stops the link from slipping out.

The advantage is convenience. You can fasten it quickly with one hand, which helps when the other wrist is already done, and a well-made hinge keeps it from slipping. The drawback is that only one side carries the design: the back is a plain bar, so the decorative face must be turned outward. How to set the link the right way round is in how to wear cufflinks.

A close relative is the bullet-back, whose rear end is a small bullet-shaped piece that flips. It is used in the same way and is less bulky than a long bar.

The chain link

A chain link has two identical decorative faces joined by a short length of chain. Worn, one face sits on the outside of the wrist, the other on the inside of the cuff, and the chain passes through all four layers of cloth.

This is the classic form. Both faces are finished, so a link that turns slightly or a wrist that rotates still looks right. In an onyx or mother-of-pearl set, matching faces on each side make the wrist look balanced. The short chain keeps the link snug to the wrist rather than dangling.

The drawback is that fitting takes more care: you pass one face through the holes, draw the chain through, then bring the other face in from the other side. A beginner may need several tries. The faces are thicker than a toggle, so they can sit a little proud under the jacket sleeve.

The silk knot

A silk knot is two cloth knots tied from silk or elastic thread and joined by a short cord of the same material. They come in many colours, feel soft and cost little.

That is exactly why they belong to informal occasions: the office, a coffee, a cheerful party. A silk knot is not a polished metal link with a hard-stone face, and it lacks the brightness that evening lighting asks for. At a serious black-tie event it makes the shirt look a step less finished than the jacket and bow tie. If you like colour, let it appear in the pocket square instead of the cuff.

Knots are also hard to match to studs, because shirt studs are normally metal and sit alongside metal cufflinks.

Quick comparison

Type	Fastening	Decorative face	Suits a tuxedo
Toggle	Pass through, flip the bar	One side	Yes, practical
Chain link	Two faces joined by chain	Two matching faces	Yes, classic
Silk knot	Two cloth knots on a cord	Two fabric knots	No, too casual

Which link for a tuxedo

For a tuxedo, prefer metal links with a flat, polished stone face: black onyx, white mother-of-pearl or plain metal. Between the two mechanisms:

• Choose the toggle if you want convenience, dress alone, or are not used to fastening links.
• Choose the chain link if you like the classic form, want both faces finished and are used to the handling.

Both are acceptable for black tie, provided the material and setting agree with the studs, watch and ring. The choice of stone and metal is covered in choosing cufflinks and studs.

Types to avoid with a tuxedo: silk knots, novelty links shaped like characters, links with a large logo, glowing links or multi-coloured ones. They suit a playful style, but they struggle to sit inside formal wear.

From the Mon Amie workroom

Which mechanism feels easier is a matter of each man's hands, so the quick way is to fasten both on a real double cuff. You can book a fitting at a showroom and let an advisor have you try several types on an actual shirt before you choose.