Black Tie in Britain, America and Europe Compared

Black tie shares one frame everywhere: a dinner jacket, white shirt, black bow tie and polished shoes. But the small details inside that frame change from country to country. Britain tends to keep it strict, America is looser and more varied, and in France and Italy the outfit is called a smoking. These are general tendencies; each event and each host can differ, so treat this as a guiding map, not a law.

Britain: the strict standard

Britain is where the dinner jacket began, and the British still call it that (or DJ for short), while the dress code is black tie. A traditional wearer there tends to follow these points:

• Colour: black or midnight blue, with satin or grosgrain lapels.
• Lapel: peak or shawl are the two classic choices. The notch lapel is often considered less formal by those who follow the orthodox line.
• Waistcoat or cummerbund: both are correct, but a low-cut thin waistcoat is much liked in Britain for its discreet look.
• Details: a hand-tied bow, braided trousers, no belt, a pleated or piqué shirt front.

The spirit is: little changes, and when it does, very quietly.

America: looser, with the cummerbund and the black tuxedo common

In America the jacket is called a tuxedo, a name that traces to Tuxedo Park, New York. The approach is generally more open:

• The cummerbund is very common, often matched with the bow tie.
• A black tuxedo is the default; notch lapels appear more often than in Britain.
• A white dinner jacket is familiar in summer and in hot regions.
• More colour for private galas, weddings and holidays.
• America also has a level called black tie optional, meaning men may wear either a tuxedo or a formal dark suit. The concept is less often used in Europe.

France and Italy: the idea of the "smoking"

In France and Italy the outfit is usually called a smoking. The word was borrowed from the English smoking jacket and came to mean evening dress in many continental countries. Invitations may use the local phrase, such as "tenue de soirée" in France. In general, the cut there is often closer and the jacket shorter, but still follows the familiar black-and-white frame. One handy point: there, "smoking" almost always means a tuxedo, not a lounging jacket.

An interesting echo is Yves Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking" of 1966, a tuxedo for women. The name shows how deeply the word smoking took root in French fashion language.

A quick comparison

Point	Britain	America	France, Italy
Name	Dinner jacket, black tie	Tuxedo, black tie	Smoking
Strictness	High	Looser	Moderate, cut-focused
Lapel	Peak or shawl	Shawl, peak and notch all seen	Peak, shawl
Waistcoat or cummerbund	Waistcoat or cummerbund	Cummerbund common	Either
Colour	Black, midnight blue	Black, white in summer, more colour	Black, midnight blue

The remarks in the table are general tendencies, not rules.

Notes for each place

• In Britain: stay within the traditional frame; if the card says black tie, do not experiment.
• In America: read the line on the invitation closely (black tie, black tie optional, creative black tie), because they differ.
• In France and Italy: do not mistake "smoking" for a smoking jacket; mind the close cut and clean white shirt.
• Everywhere: if unsure, ask the host. See also attending events abroad and what the tuxedo is called around the world.

The overview of levels is on the dress code page.

A note from the Mon Amie workroom

If you are heading to an event abroad, tell the Mon Amie consultant the country and the type of event, so lapel and accessories can be chosen to fit. A neutral choice close to the British frame and suitable almost anywhere is the Black Tuxedo with Satin-Edged Peak Lapels (TUX-010). Making time is confirmed at measuring, so book ahead of your trip. Book a consultation at a showroom.