Minimalist tuxedo style: less is more

A minimalist tuxedo means few details, each one right: a single button, a medium lapel, a fly-front shirt, black and white accessories, no patterned pocket square and no showy metal. The suit is better not because something is added but because every piece sits where it should, and the cut speaks for itself.

One button, a medium lapel, no patterned square

Three foundations of this way of dressing:

• One button. The front stays clean, with the lapel running straight down to the closing point and no row of buttons breaking the line. Two or three buttons ask you to think about which to fasten; with one, it is fastened or open and that is the end of it.
• A medium lapel. Not too slim and not too wide. Satin-faced peak or shawl both work, provided the lapel is not the first thing anyone notices. The balance between lapel and bow is covered in proportion of lapel, bow tie and collar.
• No patterned square. A white silk square folded flat is enough, or no square at all. Patterned, multi-coloured or puffed squares belong to a different style.

TUX-040 is a clear example: a black tuxedo in matte cloth, a satin-faced peak lapel, a single button, a white pocket square folded straight as the only point of light, and matching black trousers. No pattern, no extra detail. As the notes on this model say, the simplicity is the hardest part to tailor, because there is no detail in which to hide a flaw.

The fly-front shirt

A fly-front shirt hides the row of buttons behind a strip of cloth, leaving the chest as one flat panel. For a minimalist look it is a natural partner: no studs, no pleats, nothing cutting across from collar to waist. You can read more under the fly-front shirt.

For the collar, choose a small turndown or a neat wing collar. The bow is black, medium width and hand-tied.

Black and white accessories, no showy metal

The palette of the minimalist look has only black and white:

• Black bow, white shirt, polished black shoes, thin black socks.
• A white pocket square, if worn.
• Plain, small cufflinks; a slim watch with a simple dial. The metal may be silver or gold, but with no stones, no engraving and no heavy case.
• No belt at all if the trousers already fit the waist.

The principle: from a distance, nothing glitters. All the light comes from the satin of the lapel and bow, and from the patent shoes.

When minimal turns bland

Minimalist does not mean lacking. A few signs show the outfit has gone too far:

• Flat, lifeless cloth. A minimalist tuxedo relies entirely on its cloth and cut. Limp cloth with an even, papery darkness makes the suit look like a uniform.
• A poor fit. With no other detail to distract, a crooked shoulder or long sleeve shows at once. Our piece on the philosophy of harmony in black tie speaks of the whole outfit sharing one tone, but only on the condition that everything fits.
• Stripped to no focal point. Keep at least one detail where the eye can pause: a crisp white pocket square, a glossy satin lapel or a covered button. With none, nobody remembers the suit.
• Dropping what the dress code requires. Minimalism removes the superfluous, not the correct bow or shoes.

The usual cure is to add texture and not colour: a matte barathea or fine wool, a grosgrain lapel in place of satin, or a refined hand-finished seam. In other words, change the surface and don't pile on more things.

A tip from the Mon Amie workroom

A minimalist tuxedo is the hardest to make, so it is also the one that needs the most fittings: the tailor builds the pattern, tries it, and adjusts the shoulder, waist and cuffs until every line runs straight. You can choose the black cloth with the right level of matteness together with the tailor, then book a fitting at the Mon Amie showroom.