Ruby and Deep Red Tuxedos: When You Want to Be Seen

Ruby and deep red are the reds for a man who truly wants to be seen. They are brighter and denser than burgundy, fresher than plum, and once you put one on there is no room for shyness. So the key to wearing it well is not the jacket but everything else: keep the rest restrained so the red is the only character on stage.

Two reds, two levels

Ruby is a vivid, clean red with a slight lift toward pink. It is fresh and bright, eye-catching in photographs and under stage light. Deep red (crimson) is darker and leans toward blood red, denser and weightier, more serious in a ballroom.

Both differ from burgundy in having almost no brown. That is what makes them stand out, and also what makes them easy to dismiss as "costume" if styled badly. If this feels like too much, a gentler choice is in burgundy tuxedos: who they suit and when or plum red tuxedos.

Two real models: TUX-007 and TUX-084

Both are in Burgundy & jewel tones.

• TUX-007: a vivid ruby red with black peak lapels, one button and a nipped waist. The black lapel is the key frame, dividing the red into clear planes and slimming the torso.
• TUX-084: deep red with broad black satin peak lapels, one button and slim black-jetted pockets. The broad lapel adds shoulder volume, and the fine jetting adds refinement.

What they share: black lapels, one button, peak lapels. That is the tuxedo skeleton, while the red is the variable. Do not change all three at once, because once the colour is loud, the form must be thoroughly conventional for the suit to remain a tuxedo and not fancy dress.

Keep accessories black

A rule worth remembering: when the jacket carries a strong colour, accessories should be dark and plain.

• A hand-tied black bow tie, in velvet or satin, in the same material as the lapel.
• Black trousers with a satin stripe (galon) matching the lapel.
• Black patent shoes or opera pumps.
• A white or ivory shirt with a piqué or pleated front, with cufflinks and studs in black or soft gold.
• A flat white pocket square, or none.

Do not add a red bow, a red cummerbund or a red pocket square. Repeating the colour makes the suit heavy and busy. Each colour needs to appear once, in the largest area, which is the jacket.

The stage and Tet parties

Two occasions suit red very well.

Stage and performance. Stage lights make red glow, so performers, MCs, singers and instrumentalists stand out in the frame. Ruby catches light beautifully. Lights can also shift the shade, however: warm light pushes ruby toward orange-red, and cold light deepens it. Test the cloth under the type of light you will stand in. Our piece on beaded stage tuxedos covers more choices for performers.

Tet and new-year parties. For Vietnamese people, red is linked to good luck and the spirit of spring. A deep red tuxedo with black lapels carries the Tet mood and is still formal enough for a company party or an early-year wedding. It is a tidy way to welcome Tet while still standing out.

Who should try it

Bright red is not for everyone, but nor is it only for the extremely self-assured.

1. A balanced build that likes a clean line: the nipped waist of TUX-007 flatters the figure.
2. Fair to medium skin: fresh ruby makes the skin look lively. Very pale skin may prefer deep red so the colour is less sharp.
3. Deeper skin: deep red is an easy choice.
4. Anyone who works in front of a crowd: MCs, performers, speakers, a groom who wants to differ.

Avoid it when: the invitation says strict black tie; when you are a guest at someone else's wedding and the couple have chosen a formal palette; or when you do not yet own a black suit, since your first one should be the versatile colour. For levels of formality, see our dress code page.

From the Mon Amie workshop

Red shifts easily in photographs, so visit a showroom and look at real cloth under both warm and white light. The tailor will help balance the lapel width and waist suppression and gives the specific making time when you are measured. Book a fitting here.