Loafers with a tuxedo: when they work

Yes, with conditions. A black patent or velvet loafer with a tuxedo is acceptable at relaxed events, especially outdoor parties and beach weddings. For strict black tie, the oxford is still the right answer. Suede loafers should be avoided for any evening dress.

When a loafer is acceptable

A loafer is a laceless slip-on, and relaxed by nature. To sit at a formal table beside a tuxedo, it has to be clean in form:

• Black patent or polished calf. A glossy surface is close to the oxford and agrees with the satin on lapels and trouser stripes.
• Black or deep-blue velvet, often called an evening loafer. It nods to the classic slipper but has a sole firm enough for outdoors. See velvet slippers for the background.
• A slim shape and thin sole. Avoid chunky sporty soles, ridged rubber or heavy heels.
• Little hardware. If there is a trim, keep it small and in the same colour. A large buckle or loud emblem makes the shoe look casual.

With thin black socks, a loafer like this gives a relaxed yet neat appearance.

Why it is less formal than an oxford

In terms of etiquette, formality in shoes runs from closed to open, from more seams to fewer, and from laced to slip-on. The closed-lacing oxford sits at the top, then the opera pump, then the loafer. The loafer arrived later in menswear and began as a walking and leisure shoe. Even when made in patent, it carries those origins.

The practical consequences:

1. If the invitation says black tie without "optional" or "creative", wear an oxford or pump. See our dress code guide.
2. In a business or corporate setting, a glossy black loafer may be noticed immediately by a stickler.
3. If you are the host or master of ceremonies, the standard shoe is the lower-risk choice.

Our piece on patent oxfords for a tuxedo describes the benchmark shoe for comparison.

Good for outdoor parties and beach weddings

The loafer comes into its own when the setting loosens:

• Weddings on the beach or at a resort: thin-soled shoes cope with boardwalks and lawns; on sand a loafer lets in more grit than a laced shoe, but it is quick to slip off. In a hot climate, a lightweight tuxedo with loafers is a comfortable way to dress.
• Garden parties and evening cocktails outdoors: the dress code is usually cocktail or black tie optional.
• Informal dinners or creative black-tie evenings.

For these events, choose a tuxedo in a breathable cloth and a gentle base colour, for example TUX-015, an ivory-white tuxedo with a shawl lapel, or a navy such as TUX-018, a midnight-navy single-button jacket. Black patent or black velvet loafers agree with both. With an ivory jacket, though, wear black loafers, not brown or tan.

Avoid suede loafers

Suede has a rough, matte surface that absorbs light. That runs against the nature of evening dress, which depends on the sheen of satin, silk and leather. Suede also suggests daytime and weekend wear, and it marks easily with water, dust and spilled wine.

If you want a soft texture, choose velvet rather than suede. Velvet catches the lamps with a gentle gleam; suede does not.

A few tips when wearing loafers with a tuxedo

• Still wear socks: black, thin, and tall enough to avoid showing skin. Some men go sockless in hot weather, but with evening dress socks keep things neat and hygienic. See socks with a tuxedo.
• Check the trouser length: a loafer is low, so the hem should just touch the shoe.
• Do not go further down: the loafer is already the limit of relaxed. Our piece on sneakers with a tuxedo deals with that separately.

Try them at Mon Amie

If you plan to wear loafers, bring the pair to your fitting so the tailor can set the trouser hem. Book a fitting at a showroom or see our bespoke tuxedo page.