Wearing Glasses with a Tuxedo: Frames, Lapels and Bow Tie

Glasses sit in the middle of the face, so with a tuxedo they have to agree with the rest of the outfit the way a watch or cufflinks do. A man who wears glasses need not give them up for an evening: choose frames in the right spirit, match the metal, and balance them against the lapel and the bow tie.

Slim frames or black frames

Two safe choices for black tie:

• Slim metal frames: light, discreet, at home with a classic tuxedo. Silver, pale gold or rose gold all work, provided they agree with the other metal you wear.
• Black acetate frames: a clear, decisive line that suits a black jacket with satin lapels. A black round or modest rectangular frame is a familiar companion to formal dress.

Brightly coloured frames, patterned frames or very thick, oversized frames pull the eye away from the suit. They are not wrong, but they belong to an evening that allows more freedom than strict black tie. Tortoiseshell is warmer and less severe; it can work if the outfit has warm notes, such as a velvet bow tie or brass buttons.

Match frame metal to buttons and studs

The rule is simple: one tone of metal across the whole person. Frames, cufflinks, shirt studs, watch case, buckle on braces, a tie bar if there is one, should all sit in the same family, silver or gold. Mixing two tones usually reads as untidy unless it is deliberate.

• Silver or titanium frames go with silver studs and a steel watch.
• Gold or rose-gold frames go with gold studs and brass jacket buttons.
• Black acetate frames are not metal, so you may choose the metal of studs and watch freely, as long as it is consistent.

TUX-070 is a black tuxedo with silver buttons, and it pairs with silver frames or black ones. TUX-003 is a black shawl-lapel tuxedo with a copper sheen; pale gold or black frames work with it, but a cold silver frame sits awkwardly beside a copper tone. For the wider question of metal, see matching metal in accessories.

Lapel and bow tie in balance with the frame

Glasses create a block of visual weight near the collar and bow tie. If the scales disagree, the face looks crowded.

1. Large, thick frames: go with a medium to large bow tie and a medium to wide lapel. A small bow tie beside a heavy frame looks stranded.
2. Slim frames: go with a neat bow tie and a moderate lapel. A very broad lapel can make a slim frame disappear.
3. Line: square, angular frames agree with a peak lapel; round frames agree with a rounded shawl. This is a guide to harmony, not a hard rule.

Face shape affects the choice too. The article on choosing lapel and bow tie for the face covers that separately, and is worth reading alongside this one.

Glasses in photos under lights

Evening events mean spotlights, flash and stage lighting. Glasses tend to cause three problems in photographs:

• Glare: lights or flash reflect off the lens. An anti-reflective coating on the lenses reduces it. When posing, tilt the chin down slightly or turn the face a little away from the light source.
• Photochromic lenses: some darken in strong light, so the eyes look hidden behind sunglasses in the picture. If you can choose, wear clear lenses for the evening.
• Frames that cover the eyes: a thick or low frame can shade the eyes when photographed from above.

If you only need glasses for reading, or are used to contact lenses, you may switch to lenses just for the photographs. That is a personal choice, not an obligation.

Small checks before the evening

1. Clean lenses and frame; fingerprints show under lights.
2. Check the screws and nose pads.
3. Carry a small cloth in an inside pocket, not an outer one.
4. If you are being measured for the collar, bring your glasses so the tailor sees your real look.

When to ask the tailor

At the trial, wear the glasses you plan to use. The tailor will judge the suit as a whole and suggest lapel width and bow tie size. You can see the made-to-measure tuxedo page and book a fitting at Mon Amie.