Pocket square folds for a tuxedo

With a tuxedo the fold should be simple and neat: the flat TV fold is the standard choice for black tie, the puff is softer, and the one-point and two-point folds add a little character. Whichever you pick needs a white square, pressed flat, and some preparation so the fold does not slump after a few hours.

The flat fold (TV fold)

This is the basic fold, also called the presidential fold, and it suits a tuxedo well because its line is composed. Tucked in the pocket it shows only a straight white band across the top, ruler-edged, with no points.

How to fold it:

1. Lay the square flat, good side down.
2. Fold it in half to make a rectangle, then in half again to make a smaller square.
3. Fold the bottom edge up until the width suits your pocket.
4. Tuck it in so the white edge stands about a finger joint above the pocket opening.

This fold suits linen better than silk, because linen holds a sharp crease. It looks clean and disciplined, right for a minimalist black tuxedo such as TUX-092, where a straight-folded white square is the single point of light.

The puff

The puff means pinching the square at the centre, drawing it up and dropping it into the pocket so the corners flare softly like a small flower. There is no straight line; the cloth rises soft and slightly full.

To make it: lay the square flat, pinch the middle between thumb and forefinger, lift so the cloth falls down, smooth it lightly and drop it into the pocket. Let the corners show naturally.

This suits silk, whose softness makes a graceful puff. It is gentle and fits an evening that is less severe. For serious black tie, keep the puff small and tidy, not a bouquet.

One-point and two-point folds

Both produce sharp corners that stand above the pocket.

• One-point: fold the square into a triangle along the diagonal, then fold the two side corners in so a single point stands up. It is crisp and upright, and suits a man who wants more detail than the flat fold.
• Two-point: also a triangle, but offset so that two points show, one lower than the other. It has more detail and a little show.

Both are decorative, so for traditional black tie think twice: the straight line of the flat fold usually fits better. The one-point works when you want a quiet difference, and the two-point is better kept for parties with some personality. For the choice of cloth, see pocket squares with a tuxedo.

Folds compared

Fold	Shape	Suits	Formality
Flat	Straight horizontal band	Linen	High, right for black tie
Puff	Soft, flared corners	Silk	Medium
One-point	A single peak	Linen, silk	Fairly high
Two-point	Two peaks	Linen, silk	Lower, more personality

Keeping the shape all evening

A fold that looks good at the door can slump after hours of holding a glass, shaking hands and sitting down. A few tips to help it hold:

• Press the square flat first, and after folding press the fold again with an iron or leave it under a weight for a while so the crease sets.
• Use a square sized to the pocket. A square too large has to be pushed in and crumples; one too small sinks.
• Fold around a small stiff card inside, or use a square with a built-in insert, but make sure the card does not show.
• Tilt the square slightly toward the chest as you seat it, rather than standing it upright like a post, so it leans on the pocket edge.
• Adjust it in a quiet corner or a mirror, not in the middle of the room.
• If you would rather not fold it yourself, you can use a pre-folded pocket square, although it can look stiffer than a hand fold.

From the Mon Amie workroom

A good fold also depends on the width of the breast pocket on the jacket you wear, so the surest way is to try it on the jacket itself. You can book a fitting at a showroom and have an advisor show you how to fold and seat the square at the right height on your own tuxedo.