Velvet types for tuxedos: cotton, silk blend and viscose

Tuxedo velvet falls mainly into three groups: dense, warm cotton velvet; glossy, supple silk-blend or viscose velvet; and lower-priced polyester velvet. Beyond the fibre, pile length decides how formal or opulent the jacket looks. The right choice depends on the occasion, how much care you are willing to give, and above all the climate where you live.

What velvet is, and why there are several kinds

Velvet is a cloth with a short, upright pile covering one face. The pile catches light from different angles, so the colour shifts as you move, which is its charm. The fibre used for the pile and the base cloth determines the handle, shine, weight and durability.

Cotton velvet: dense, warm, sturdy

Cotton velvet, often called velveteen, has a short, dense pile and a softer, more matte glow. It is weighty in the hand, holds its shape well and is more durable than thinner velvets, showing fewer pressure marks from sitting.

The point to weigh is warmth. A dense cloth holds heat, which is pleasant in an air-conditioned room but can be oppressive at an outdoor Saigon party. Cotton velvet suits cooler seasons, indoor evenings and men who like a warm, slightly vintage look. In wine red or forest green it feels deep and grounded.

Silk-blend and viscose velvet: glossy, soft, fluid

Silk-blend or viscose velvet gives a softer pile and a noticeably deeper lustre. The surface changes colour strongly when light touches it, drapes well and is lighter than cotton velvet. This is the type usually seen in evening jackets in the smoking-jacket tradition.

The cost is sensitivity. The pile can be crushed by long sitting or a hard chair back, and it marks easily with water or rubbing. Viscose in particular is weak when wet. These jackets need careful hanging and proper care; see our guide to caring for a velvet jacket.

Velvet containing real silk is usually considerably dearer than cotton velvet and can move the suit into a higher price line. Ask your consultant for the exact fibre content rather than relying on the label "silk velvet" alone.

Polyester velvet: when it makes sense

Polyester velvet is inexpensive and resistant to stains, but breathes poorly and its sheen tends to be flatter and harsher. If you need it for a single occasion on a tight budget it is workable, yet for a made-to-measure jacket worn for years a more natural fibre is worth considering. For a one-off event, renting a tuxedo is also a sensible option.

Pile length

• Short pile: a neat face with a fine sheen and a more polished look. It shows fewer pressure marks and pairs easily with a satin lapel. Suits a formal jacket.
• Long pile: a plush surface that shifts colour strongly and feels more dramatic, but shows crushing and nap direction more readily. Suits theatrical or creative events.

Whichever you pick, the tailor must cut every piece with the nap running the same way. If a sleeve is cut against the body, the two will read as different shades under lights.

Matching to occasion and climate

Situation	Suggestion
Indoor year-end party, air-conditioned	Silk-blend or viscose velvet, short pile
Outdoor evening in hot weather	Think twice; velvet is inherently heavy and warm
Cold season, northern provinces	Dense cotton velvet
Arts events, themed parties	Longer pile, deep colour

To see velvet in a real tuxedo jacket, look at TUX-131, the Burgundy Velvet Tuxedo Jacket with Black Satin Peak Lapel: a wine-red velvet jacket with a contrasting black satin peak lapel. It is a jacket made wholly of velvet, unlike models that use velvet only on the lapel. Our article on the velvet jacket and the smoking jacket covers how to style this kind of jacket.

Book a fitting at Mon Amie

Velvet has to be touched and turned under a lamp to be understood. Come to a showroom and a consultant will show you several velvets in different fibres. See the process on the made-to-measure tuxedo page and book a visit.