Coloured pocket squares with a tuxedo: match the bow tie?

A coloured or patterned pocket square works well with a tuxedo, as long as it is not an exact copy of the bow tie. The two should speak to each other, not repeat each other. Echo one colour, soften one pattern, and let the suit do the rest.

Why it should not match the bow tie exactly

When the tie and square share the same colour, pattern and sheen, the eye reads them as a pair bought off one rack. It is tidy, but it can also look stiff, like a hired set assembled in a hurry. A well-dressed man usually lets the two sit slightly apart: a black satin tie with a muted silk square, or a burgundy velvet tie with a square that carries a touch of burgundy on a different ground.

A tie and square cut from the same cloth is still a legitimate choice, particularly when you need to coordinate with groomsmen. We cover that case in the piece on matching bow tie and pocket square. Here we look at pairing with intent instead.

Echo one colour, not the whole palette

The simplest approach is to pick one colour already in the picture and let the square repeat it. The source could be:

• The bow tie: a burgundy velvet tie with a cream square that has a burgundy edge or dot.
• Your partner's dress or wrap: if she wears emerald, a hint of emerald in your square makes the two of you look like one story. See dressing alongside your date.
• A boutonniere or bouquet: common at weddings.

Echo one colour only. If the square carries five hues and each one appears somewhere else on you, the whole look turns busy, and a tuxedo lives on calm.

Small patterns look refined, large ones look loud

On a tuxedo, the pattern on a pocket square should be small and sparse: a fine polka dot, a reduced paisley, a thin geometric, or a tone-on-tone weave. Large prints, bright colours, animals or lettering pull the eye to the breast pocket and steal attention from the lapel, which is the main feature of a dinner jacket.

A few working rules:

1. Fabric: silk or silk blends for coloured and patterned squares, because silk has a gentle sheen that suits evening. Linen is the traditional choice for white.
2. Fold: a white square goes in flat with a straight edge, showing about a finger's width. A coloured silk square can be folded loosely so the corners fall naturally.
3. Finish: if the lapel is already glossy satin, a matte silk square keeps the pocket from competing with it.

In our collection, TUX-094 is a good example: a glossy navy tuxedo with a U-neck waistcoat and a patterned pocket square. The calm base gives the square room to stand out without overdoing it.

When white is all you need

A flat white square remains the correct default for strict black tie: galas, award evenings, any invitation that simply says black tie. It is clean, neutral and never wrong. Stay with white when:

• The invitation says "black tie" without "creative" or "optional". See our dress code guide.
• You are the host or master of ceremonies and need to look composed for the whole room.
• The outfit already has plenty going on, such as a velvet bow tie, unusual satin lapels or an elaborate pleated shirt. White then gives the eye somewhere to rest.

An example from the collection: TUX-092, a black single-button tuxedo with satin shawl lapels and a white pocket square, classic with no fuss.

For creative black tie, a wedding with its own colour scheme or an evening among friends, coloured and patterned squares are where you get to show some personality while staying within the rules.

A quick test before you leave the house

Lay the tie and the square side by side and look from an arm's length. If they clearly belong together but you cannot say they are the same colour, you have it right. If you have to explain why they work, swap one. And if you are genuinely unsure, go back to white. It has never spoiled a tuxedo.

Bring your tie to the fitting

During a bespoke fitting you can bring your tie, a square, or a swatch of your partner's dress so the consultant can test colours under showroom lighting instead of guessing from photos. Mon Amie can suggest silk squares to suit the cloth you choose for the suit. Book a fitting at a showroom and see our bespoke tuxedo service.